(I sat on this review for a few days, for a myriad of reasons. In the end, my gut told me to let it go. As it stands. Stand or fall. Let the flames begin)Have you ever had so many people recommend a restaurant you were scared to go? Because there's no way it could live up to itself? Sometimes hearing SO much about a place puts me off. I've been burned before. By people who adore a place and recommend, recommend, recommend. Then I go and think, "What's the big deal?" or worse, "OMG....Really?!" Our trip to the C&O Restaurant was like that (the FORMER not the latter). The experience was okay, but with some major hiccups. Definitely not the ecstasy-inducing meal I was led to believe I would have. For $25/person, it was decent. If I had to pay more it wouldn't have been worth it.
In Charlottesville, the C&O is an institution. From talking to people I get the idea it's been around awhile. If you're from Charlottesville, you've either eaten there or known someone who's worked there. On its website there are accolades upon accolades, including one from Craig Claiborne (friend of Julia Child and Jacques Pépin, and former food editor for The New York Times). Except ol' Craig passed away almost 10 years ago which means he probably dined there 15 or 20. What accolades have they gathered lately?
Since we moved here from Pittsburgh, SO many people have said, "Have you BEEN to C&O? You really oughta go." So much so I've considered lying about it. "Oh, of COURSE, we've been, it's divine." My sister and her husband still talk about their anniversary dinner - in NINETEEN NINETY SIX - and indeed it sounded divine. A multi-course French meal complete with cheese course and about every "acootraymuh" you could ask for. Talked with someone "in the know" who told me this was the original owner's intention - he wanted a complete French experience on the Downtown Mall back when there wasn't really anything else ON the Downtown Mall. Fine french dining. Cork the wine, they will come.*
So......as a result of all the hooplah, Hubby and I arrived, with high expectations, as part of Cville's first-ever Restaurant Week. On the LAST day of the event, as this was the only reservation we could get. A Sunday evening, which we found incredibly pleasant. No crowds (well, yeah, crowds tonight because of Restaurant Week) better parking, a nice switchup to Friday/Saturday.
We requested a seat on the back terrace - the weather had been unseasonably cool all weekend, and it felt nice to be able to enjoy a leisurely dinner outdoors in Mid-July. The terrace was a weird combination of fine al fresco dining mixed with your college roommate's back porch. Fancy iron torches lit aflame with gravel underneath. Elegance meets Tiki-bar meets Richmond divebar whose patio opens up onto Grace Street alley circa 1988.**
Asked for a rosé, which seemed appropriate since this WAS a French restaurant and it was summer. After a long, long length of time, during which our appetizers arrived and we began to eat them, the wine arrived. Not the one we asked for ("Our sommelier RARELY carries that vintage." Okaaaaay, then why do they have it on the menu?) but all right nonetheless. Which brings me to the service. I know everyone in Cville complains about the lack of service and I don't want to beat the issue to death, but I've feel I've got to bring it up here. The service at C&O appeared not just laid back, not just slow, but positively APATHETIC. The waiter brings a different bottle of wine (without asking if it is okay) and then when he tells us the other vintage is rarely carried here, just shrugs his shoulders like, "Not my problem." I try to engage him in conversation several times during the course of the meal (because I'm mouthy, chatty, overfriendly to the point of obnoxious sometimes which Hubby finds endearing, I HOPE :-) but am met with the same shoulder shrug. As if to say, "Eh, that's nice." It leaves us both flat. The best dinners are when you leave knowing the waiter's name and vow to return, sitting only in their section. Not to say the service was BAD, but for a fine dining establishment? It was lacking a definite something...
On to the food...
Appetizers
C&O Vegetable Soup - Okay, seriously, what is the big deal. It was fine, but to me tasted like canned vegetable soup that had been possibly kicked up a notch by the addition of some homemade vegetable stock. NOT swoonworthy.
Housemade gnocchi with slow-roasted tomatoes, sauteed mushrooms and fresh ricotta - These were fine, not bad, but not great either. Mushrooms in July? Okay. The gnocchi, to the chefs' credit (I understand there are many) were light and fluffy, but there was a LOT going on with that plate. The gnocchi were positively covered with the tomatoes and mushrooms, and hard as we looked, we didn't see any ricotta.
Entrees
Steak chinoise with fresh ginger, tamari, and scallion cream sauce - Ginger? What ginger? Tamari? Are you sure? The sauce on this dish tasted, seriously, like someone had opened a jar of Heinz white gravy and dumped it on top. I tasted no ginger or tamari anywhere. And the steak, which was cut into strips, was pink, but very tough and hard to cut. We kept trying to guess what cut of meat they used. An underwhelming dish.
Roasted Niman Ranch chicken with sweet potato souffle and Armagnac jus - FINALLY. Here we have it ladies and germs, THE BEST DISH OF THE EVENING BY FAR!!! Whoo hoo! I wanted to jump up and down in my chair then run to the kitchen and hug the chef so tightly he or she's eyeballs would pop out. It was like going to see a play where all the actors suck, but one little secondary actor steals the show. This chicken was perfect. A whole half chicken, roasted perfectly. The skin was brown and crispy while the insides were moist and juicy. Not oversalted, not dry. Perfect. Perfect. Perfect. I've said it before and I'll say it again - roasted chicken is the hardest thing to get right. C&O got this right. Nice work! (And yes, I'm going on and on because I wanted to like this meal so MUCH, I really did and it was such a relief to finally get something up to fine dining standards). The Armagnac jus? A letdown. I couldn't detect any flavor of Armagnac. Again, it tasted like Heinz gravy from a bottle. But that's okay. The chicken was PERFECT!
Dessert
Summer peach and blueberry cobbler - I am a cobbler fanatic. So much so I have *almost* perfected it at home after years and years of trial and error (mostly error). In any case, I know a good cobbler. C&O? They need a few more years of trying I think. It had a nice flavor, but was gluey in consistency - which I think was due to their use of cornstarch (recipe in The Hook) which I don't like. And the crust? No real crust here, just a flat cookie with a sugary topping perched atop the mound of fruit. Cheaters!
Chocolate espresso pot de creme - What!?!?! I had creme brulee!!! I know it's the last day of the event, but part of the reason I picked C&O is because pot de creme is my favorite dessert in the whole wide entirety of the world as we know it. To end up eating a run-of-the-mill creme brulee (and it was believe me, I've made better in my house and that's not saying a whole helluva lot) is a letdown.
No coffee offered, no after dinner drinks even though our meal took less than two hours and the sun was still high in the sky. Sigh. Fine......we walked out into the sun thinking, "Huh? THAT was what all the fuss was about?"
It's not that C&O is a bad restaurant - it isn't. I just get the feeling it was a lot better YEARS ago. All those awards, all that old, polished wood is being held up to the light as if it were still a shiny diamond. When now, it's more Diamelle. Maybe I'm being unfair. Maybe it's unfair to visit such an award-winning place during a Restaurant Week when there are fixed menus (a là Valentine's Day) and the focus is on packing them in, filling all the reservations, bringing in new foodies to get them hooked, instead of focusing on service and quality food. I dunno. We'll probably go back. But my expectations will be a lot lower which is sad.
I think an anonymous reviewer at Tripadvisor put it best about C&O Restaurant. "I almost gave this 5 stars for sentimental reasons." For SENTIMENTAL reasons? That's terrible! And this person "almost" gave them, which means they didn't. You have to wonder why...
*Just had a thought - is THIS why we have so many French restaurants in Cville? Because they all thought they could replicate what C&O did back in the day? Hmmm.....
**Earned my drinking stripes in places like these Tweet






