There's a chill in the air, which means summer is just about over. The breeze seems to be saying, in not so subtle words, "Fall is here, dear, why don't you finish up your Brooklyn Road Trip Saga before Christmas. Hmmm?" This is food story 4 of 4. Previously, I wrote about a nighttime visit to Coney Island, Brooklyn pizza, and a charismatic restaurant owner in Bay Ridge. If you've been following my stories (which took MONTHS longer than the actual trip), I thank you.I saw Brooklyn at dawn on a Sunday morning when the only other people up were the old guys sweeping the sidewalks. Shooing out the old debris to prepare for the new dirt to be tracked in on what looked to be another scorching hot June day. The sun rose like a great red wet balloon that morning. The entire neighborhood felt as if it had been dipped in warm water. To do more than breathe took a gargantuan effort, but here we were - Melissa, BB, and me. Plodding along the sidewalk, barely awake. Up at 6am to catch the first hot bagels out of the oven. Sure, we needed to get on the road early to miss traffic, but more importantly, we didn't want them to sell out of bagels.
H&L Bagels. The best.
"Saltpeppaketchup?! Saltpeppaketchup?!" BB threw the word out like an incantation as we walked. "Huh?" I asked in sleepy confusion, the word barely registering. "Salt-pepper-ketchup?!" she said, like didn't I know what that meant? "That's what Timmy will ask when you order your breakfast sandwich. All one word like that, so be prepared. He ALWAYS does. Even if you hate ketchup and you go in there every damn day, he'll still say, 'Saltpeppaketchup?!'" she laughed.
The neon "Hot Bagels!" sign outside of H&L called us forward. The soft swish swish of old men sweeping their front stoops provided the morning's music. That and the soft twirping of birds. I never see dawn. Not unless I absolutely have to. So being out here now felt entirely surreal. I felt like I was dreaming. Or maybe I was just damn exhausted. Coffee-less.
But I strode into H&L confident nonetheless. Fake it 'til you make it. I was gonna order a dozen bagels and a breakfast sandwich to go like a New Yorker. I'd done this before, right? No sweat. No stuttering and stammering for me, just cool as a cucumber confidence. I'm a world traveler. An honorary Brooklyn native. I order bagels all the time. This was nothing new, right? But the early hour and the lack of coffee threw me. Then when counter-guy Timmy turned around and I saw both his eyebrows were entirely tattooed onto his face, I faltered. Two giant Sharpie arches. Right there. Wasn't expecting permanent makeup this early in the morning, I mean what the hell? Had he been in a horrible bagel mishap? That's when the downward spiral began.
"Um, what?" I asked sheepishly. He'd asked me something while I was staring. I hadn't heard. Oh no.
"Saltpeppaketchup?!" Timmy growled.
"No thank you.......So sorry, I haven't had coffee yet," I replied sheepishly.
That's when the huge bald Greek owner joined the conversation. He was a giant, covered in tattoos, and when he turned around to face me I felt two inches high. He looked like he could pick me up in one hand and crumple me up in his fist like a candy wrapper. All gone.
"You want some coffee? Let me get you some coffee!" he barked.
I shook my head no. "I'm going to have coffee back at the house," I replied. Meekly.
"What? You don’t want any coffee?" he turned to Timmy. "She don’t want any coffee! I offered her some coffee but she turned me down! She don't want any coffee!" he exclaimed, shrugging his shoulders.
Timmy shrugged back, flipping the breakfast sandwiches, looking perplexed under his perma-arches. He turned to the Greek and asked, "She don't want no coffee? Are you sure? You offered her coffee?"
"Nope I offered. You heard me offer. She don't want none." The Greek was incredulous.
I felt myself slowly sinking into the floor. I was mortified. This verbal volleyball of shit-giving slash teasing continued for many minutes while our egg sandwiches sizzled. It was embarrassing because my verbal skills were that of a 3-month old this early on a Sunday with no coffee. I'm usually right in there, but now? Sideline city. All I could do was stand there and grin like a fool. An imbecile. Silent. Feeling very foolish. I shoulda taken the damn coffee, right? But here I was right in the middle of a "Let's Make Fun of the Tourist!" marathon.
Then I realized something. All these barbs were being thrown at me accompanied by grins and winks. With every wink, I relaxed. I may have actually laughed. It's a great honor to be given shit in a Brooklyn bagel bakery. It means you're accepted. You're part of the neighborhood. Even if you're a jagoff they like you anyway. Like my father always says, "I only tease you because I love you. If I didn't love you? I wouldn't tease you." And he was the ORIGINAL shit-giver in my house.

We went to three bakeries that morning, attempting to hoard a tiny piece of Brooklyn for ourselves at each one. Bagels here, croissants there, cannolis here, black and whites there. And at 7am on a what was probably going to be a hot as hell Sunday morning, ALL these places were open. And all of them within 3 blocks of one another. If I lived in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn that MIGHT get me up at dawn on a Sunday. The promise of a plethora of fresh baked goods a stone’s throw from my front door. The promise of an egg bagel. With egg. With cheese.
H&L egg bagel with egg and cheese. So rich, so eggy, so yellow and gooey, like big ol’ cheesy, eggy bread. Yummers. One of the reasons I’ll never go low carb. Because I wake up in the morning now and wish with all my heart that H&L is set up in my kitchen. The smell will waft my way and I’ll float downstairs with the cartoon finger of smoke beckoning me forward. Purdy please can I have an H&L bakery in my kitchen? Just once?
That morning we were trying to pack a bit of Brooklyn to take with us because we didn’t want to leave. Bagels, black and whites, cannolis. We hoped food would remind us of Brooklyn, or allow the memories to linger. Maybe bring us back sooner than we knew we really could.
The night before Laura had offered to make us dinner while we rested from the day. My Southern lady upbringing wouldn’t allow me to be waited on but she insisted. To my surprise, as I sat on the couch, smelling the wonderful smells wafting from her kitchen, I lay my head down on the arm rest and promptly fell asleep. Melissa was already down for the count on the futon. We napped while BB stirred and chopped, sliced and arranged. Using the organic tomatoes and fresh-made buffalo mozzarella she’d picked up at Union Square Farmer’s Market that day during our excursion into the city to make a delicious
insalata caprese. The fresh zucchini, squash, and carrots, were turned into a rustic linguine provencale with just a dash of parmesan and black pepper.
We slept the sleep of the dead while she took care of us. I hadn’t felt that cared for in that particular way in quite a long time. Not since I’d been sacked out on the couch at age 12, full from Thanksgiving turkey, and my Nana brought me pumpkin pie. Talk about comfort food. This was food with a side of comfort.

Not only would we be leaving Brooklyn with edible souvenirs, most of which wouldn’t last the trip back, we would leave having been cared for. Resuscitated. Rejuventated. BB is the Italian grandma I never had but secretly always wanted (sorry Nana). I half expected her to bring us armfuls of leftovers lovingly packed into Cool Whip containers. Although if she had I would’ve cried. My Nana did that. Every time we visited. Even if there weren’t leftovers to pack, she’d find something. Sustenance for the journey. Packing up a little piece of home to take with. To keep the road trip going just a while longer.
We left Brooklyn and BB feeling just that way. Packed to the gills with food for the journey. And with care and love from our friend. As she waved from her front porch, I was already making plans for all the things I would eat on my trip back. And this time I would walk into H&L prepared. With five shots of espresso in my belly.